This morning, after a stop for Viennoise and croissants at Paul*, KT, Ninja M and I climbed up Castle Mountain to Notre Dame de la Guarde. There is no bus or tram, so the trek was similar to yesterday's - only with paved roads in place of loose gravel.
When we got to the front a homeless man playing Ave Maria on a French horn asked us for alms in French. Ninja M only translated because I thought the music was a fitting way to enter the church and wondered what the man said. Non of us had coins, which made me think of the story in which Jesus watches the people who come to donate money to the church. He watches them for a while and sees a poor woman put in two coins, then tells his disciples that she has given the most money, because she has given everything**. When KT and Ninja M went outside I left a few Euros in the collection box. I guess Catholic guilt permeates to atheists, too.
Inside tourists milled, making little effort to remain quiet. I heard an all-male choir recording playing through the loudspeakers - a feat over the noise of screaming children.
The views from Castle Mountain are unparalleled throughout Marseille and the church itself is beautiful, but I missed the quiet reflection I find in most old European churches. Perhaps one explanation lies in the activities taking place in the church parking lot - a benediction of motorcycles, to which every bike owner in Marseille appeared (most people in Marseille ride motorcycles). After a short benediction they revved their engines and took off down the mountain.
They really do things differently in the south of France.
*An absolutely amazing bakery down the street from Ninja M's apartment
**http://www.biblegateway.com/passage/?search=MARK%2012:%2041-44&version=KJV
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